KX125 Update

Yes it has been a long time. Spring time is an interesting time of year, everything outside wakes up and demands your attention so there is not much time to spend in the shop working on those winter projects.  The good part is I can spend some quality time riding the dirt bikes that I work on during the winter.  That is after all the maintenance is complete around the property.  Funny thing about owning enough land to have your own practice track, you spend more time working on it then practicing on it. Enough about that.

Since the last post there actually has been a few things happening, I was able to purchase a new front tire for the KX

And Yes I found time to put it on.  I went with Bridgestone 404/403 combo front and rear.

This is the very worn clutch basket, you can see the grooves next
to the plates in the vertical slot.

I also was thinking a lot about the clutch because the basket is very worn and was concerned that it would not work correctly, as well as when I put the clutch back in from the original inspection I didn't torque it down because I knew I would be back in there before starting the motor.  Another reason for concern was when I took the clutch out of the CR125 (www.cr125project.blogspot.com) that I am also working on it had a bend over lock washer on the clutch nut and I did not recall seeing anything like this in the KX and thought that there should be one.  I looked at parts details on line and to the best of my reasoning I figured one of the two washers that was in the detail would be the lock, the one closest to the nut would make sense.  Right?  NOPE.  Yes I took it apart again before ordering said washer and there were two washers already in place, one was rather concave the other flat, I ordered the washer in the parts detail anyway, only $3.  It was the concave washer and that is supposed to lock the nut with 60 ftlb of torque, OK. So when I got it I thought huh, I have this already, I used the new one just cause I bought it so why not.  Here comes the bad part.  Upon putting the clutch assembly back together, (still with the old basket) I went to torque it down almost getting to 60lbs and the nut gave out!!! Stripped!!!  Turns out that I think it was stripped before and had just enough thread to get about 40 to 50 lbs on it then pop off.  There were no shavings or any popped threads on the spindle, this is why I think it was already half gone.  Any way, this nut is not available from Kawi any longer so I went a searching, It is a 16mm x 1.0 jamb nut.  Its not impossible to get but you do have to special order it from a hardware dealer, I used Tacoma Screw products. Cost only $3.5. It is not the jamb nut size but there is plenty of room on the spindle plus I will have extra threads to grab on with. 



Photo of the clutch side of the motor, the spindle with the new nut
sticks out of the center.

Alright well I have ordered a new to me used clutch, the photos look like the wear on the basket is minimal compared to mine especially, so when that arrives in the next week or so I will carve out a little time one evening and try to reassemble this half the motor.  I have also ordered a new expansion valve cover that showed up today and was in worse condition then the one I had, hate it when that happens, also an ignition cover, hopefully that is in good shape and I can replace the squished one that I have on the bike now.

A Shot of the ever growing fleet, YZ450f, RMZ250, KX125, CR125 on the bench
in the back. You can see my Trey Canard Jersey hanging on the back wall
on the right.  AAHHH that's what I call a Man Cave.

Rear Tire and Sprocket

The rear of the bike is almost ready to go. I received a couple more parts this week so I mounted them up.

I ordered Renthal black 48 tooth sprocket for the rear and a stock size 12 sprocket for the front.  I received the correct one for the rear but the front one was shipped wrong.  So That part will have to go back.



I decided to go with the Bridgestone tires so I ordered a M404 100/90/19.  It looks really good all mounted up.

I also ordered a Renthal R1 chain to complete the set up.  The sprocket that is on the counter shaft in the bottom photo is a 13, it is new and I will probably run it also just to see which I like better the 12 or 13.  From what I remember about gearing adding a tooth to the front is like adding 3 to the rear.  If that is not right let me know.
I still need a rear chain guide, the swing arm chain sliders as well as a mud flap. I found and ordered a chain guide today, it doesn't look to be in the best of shape but I think it is some thing I can work with.

True That Wheel.

The Cheap way.

Zip Ties taped to the forks, give it a spin look for the movement and tighten as needed or loosen, depends on what way you need to move. I know not very informative but I figure you can figure it out if you have gotten this far.

Front Wheel Bearings

This is not so different from the rear wheel so Ill be brief.

I used a 30mm socket on this one, fits perfect.

Like I said, Ill be brief.  Put the cir clip in and press in the dust seal and BOOM! Done.

Wheel Bearings

Its been a while since I have posted anything here.  Shortage of parts will do that to ya.  I think everyone knows money is a little tight especially for fun projects.  I was waiting for the front wheel bearings to show up and I was going to do the front and rear at the same time but decided that I would just go ahead and put the rear ones in since it looks like the fronts wont be here till mid next week.

Here the photo shows the old bearing still in the hub with the new bearings on top and the wheel spacer that I took out from the other side.  Its a pretty easy process to change bearings.  This model hub has a cir clip that holds a bearing in on one side while the other one fits very tightly.  After removing the dust seal and the cir clip the bearing on that side lifts right out then the spacer and the other bearing can then be popped out with a long socket extension and hammer.

I first put the bearing in that needed pressed into place, a 32mm socket fit perfectly into the hub allowing me to tap the bearing in only putting pressure on the outer edges of the bearing.  There is a lip on the inside of the hub that the bearing seats against so you know when it is fully in place. After that the dust seal can be put in by hand.  These are sealed bearings so no extra grease is needed.

Flip the wheel over and slide the spacer into the hub, then the next bearing can be set into place. No hammer needed on this one.

 

Using snap ring pliers put the cir clip into the groove followed by the dust seal. Just like that your all done.